This is a quality hairwork brooch which the gold work is handmade of 15 karat yellow gold. The front of the brooch has a “Forget-Me-Knot” made of natural ocean pearls as the peddles and a rose cut diamond in the center of the flower. Pearls in mourning jewelry represent “tears” and the diamond represents “forever loved”. The front of the brooch is enameled the a deep blue color decorated with 23 natural ocean pearls and swirls of gold work as stems to the flower and leaves. The front of the brooch is in two layers and the top sets onto an oriental base of blue and white enameling. The reverse of the brooch contains the hair work of JAMES PIERSON with the date of his death as OB’ DEC. 11TH 1850 AE (at age) 50 years. The Crystal is the original one to the brooch and in fine condition as is the hairwork in the “Prince of Wales “style. The fathering style is one of the most desired style in quality hairwork. The hair work in this brooch is a work of art and made by a master in the art.
The back of the brooch has a T-bar pin and a safety clasp which would have been added later as a more secure way of wearing the brooch. The ring at the top back of the brooch is for a small cord or ribbon to go around the wearer neck to hold the brooch in case it come unpinned, this a backup safety for quality pins and brooches. This type of construction shows quality in the design of the brooch to hold the hair. The brooch is from Pennsylvania and is circa dated to 1850.
Information on Hairwork: "Hair jewelry functioned as a keepsake of the dead and as a memento mori, a reminder that death was an ever-present possibility; the wearer was constantly reminded that she should lead a good life because death could strike without warning. Often a wearer would add more hair pieces to a glass-covered brooch when additional relatives or friends passed away. Hair jewelry was not always worn to commemorate the dead; lovers also wore pieces made from the couple’s hair."
Reference is from HISTORY OF HAIR JEWELRY IN VICTORIAN AMERICA
The hair work in this brooch is a work of art and made by a master in the art. The brooch size is 2 inches wide by 1 ¾ tall, and is in excellent condition.